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Of all the buzzy skincare ingredients that have staying power—like niacinamide, salicylic acid, retinol, and Vitamin C—hyaluronic acid may be at the top of most people’s list. In a few short years, hyaluronic acid became the banner ingredient in many hydrating products, even if it was part of the formula all along. And for good reason: HA is reported to hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, so adding it to your regimen through a serum or moisturizer is a terrific way to keep skin hydrated every day, as well as feeling and looking more firm.

But like any other ingredient, not all hyaluronic acid products are equal, and it helps to have a little strategy about the product you use and the routine you build around it. For this insight, we tapped the brain of board-certified dermatologist Dr. Leah Ansell of Treiber Dermatology Associates in Rye, NY. Read on for her 101 on hyaluronic acid, and for our picks of the best hyaluronic acid products for men.

How to Shop for Hyaluronic Acid

There’s a general thinking that “more expensive” means “better quality” across all consumer categories, but hyaluronic acid may be one exception. Oftentimes, the most expensive stuff has the lowest molecular weight—which is good, since it can penetrate deeper into the skin and have more than just a superficial effect like the high-molecular-weight stuff, notes Ansell. “But there is some data that this may lead to inflammation,” she explains, which is why many doctors often tell their patients to shop the middle ground. HA by nature has large molecules, so using it as a day-to-day hydrating agent can be its best benefit. “Higher molecular weight HAs stay on the skin’s surface, providing a more superficial hydrating effect,” says Ansell. “It can certainly give skin a more nourished feel and glowy look. So just go for the product that feels and looks best on your skin.”

You might see products also marketing themselves with “hyaluronic acid” when in fact they use sodium hyaluronate. The latter is a synthesized form of HA, and has smaller molecules so that it can seep further into the skin. You can find reasonably priced products with sodium hyaluronate, which often performs as well as HA, and which also has better stability and thus longer shelf lives.

Because actual hyaluronic acid doesn’t typically penetrate the skin, it shouldn’t be relied upon as your sole serum ingredient—like, if you decided to add one serum to your regimen and it only included hyaluronic acid. That’s not suggesting that serum is the only way to get the ingredient, either, but it is a note for many consumers not to think of HA as a panacea for long-term skin wellness. “It really doesn’t have much effect on building collagen or protecting the skin, such as a Vitamin C or peptide serum would,” Ansell says. “Therefore, I do not always recommend HA. It is only for those who are particularly dry that want an added hydration effect.”

One other approach to take is by using products that boost your skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid (yes, it naturally occurs in the body). Aside from eating sweet potatoes and leafy vegetables, having a peptide-rich skincare regimen can help boost your natural HA levels (and can increase collagen production, too).

How and When to Apply Hyaluronic Acid

Here are Ansell’s straightforward rules for proper hyaluronic acid application.

It is safe to apply HA morning and night and is advised if you have very dry skin. She says it is best to apply HA to damp skin so that it can attract the extra moisture from the water, but applying it to dry skin is fine too. (Some people believe that applying it to dried skin is risky since it can pull moisture from the inner layers of the skin. Believe what you want, but maybe err on the side of applying it to damp skin?)

Ansell recommends applying HA as one of the later steps in your skincare regimen, prior to applying a moisturizer. “I would start with your nourishing serum, followed by HA, then a moisturizer to lock it in, and finish it off with your sunscreen.” If you live in a dry environment or it’s winter, or if you have the air conditioning on in summer, it’s easy for the HA to be compromised (as well as the skin itself), which is always why it’s important to have a moisturizer over top everything, to trap it inside the skin and to provide a light shield against the environment around you.

Some moisturizers also have hyaluronic acid in them. Ideally, you’d be getting the ingredient from a serum or targeted eye cream, but moisturizers also sit on the surface of the skin and allow the ingredient to work its superficial moisturizing magic—better than anything that is quickly rinsed away like a cleanser or body wash.

The Best Hyaluronic Acid Products